Udawalawe National Park – A Breath of Fresh Air (and Rain)

08/04/2025

After the heartbreaking chaos of Yala and the hopeful experience at the Elephant Transit Home, I wasn't quite sure what to expect from Udawalawe National Park. Was it going to be another overcrowded, stressed-out photo op like Yala? Or something quieter, more in tune with nature?

I'm happy to say — it was the latter.
Mostly.

A Different Kind of Safari

The weather was dramatic. About halfway into the drive, the skies opened — and when I say it rained, I mean it poured. Sheets of water hammered the jeep, the landscape blurred behind rivulets of glass and mist, and everything took on this surreal, moody tone. But as strange as it sounds, it worked in favor of photography. The rain added atmosphere — soft light, heavy skies, textured backgrounds. Wildlife in the rain tells a different story, and I was glad to capture it.

Elephants — On Their Terms

Despite the downpour, the elephants showed up. Some huddled together, others marched steadily through the mist, undisturbed by the weather or our distant presence. It was peaceful, even in the wet. No one was throwing fruit, chasing animals, or yelling into the bush. The guides kept a respectful distance, and the elephants behaved like they owned the place — which, of course, they do.

Not Empty, But Balanced

Let's be real — Udawalawe isn't some secret paradise. There were other jeeps, other tourists. But compared to Yala? It felt like breathing again. There was space. There was patience. It was busy enough to feel like a shared experience, but not so crowded that it turned into a circus. And that makes all the difference.

More Than Just Elephants

Between the bouts of rain, the wildlife still delivered: water buffalo lazing in puddles, peacocks strutting through puddles, birds flitting across the grey skies. I even spotted a couple of crocodiles lurking near the reservoir edges. The birdlife in particular was impressive — from colorful bee-eaters to watchful raptors and one particularly soaked hornbill that looked almost as grumpy as I did by hour three of the storm.

Real. Honest. Worth It.

If you're heading to Sri Lanka and looking for a safari that leans more toward nature than Instagram hype, Udawalawe deserves your attention. It's not as flashy as Yala. You might not tick off every "Big 5" box in a single outing. But what you will get — if you're lucky — is an honest wildlife experience. Even in the rain. Maybe especially in the rain.

Closing Thoughts from the South

This chapter of the trip has been everything: frustrating, emotional, humbling, inspiring. Yala reminded me how far wildlife tourism still has to go. The Elephant Transit Home gave me hope. And Udawalawe — soaking wet and quietly beautiful — gave me the kind of safari I'd almost forgotten to hope for.

We can't control the weather. But we can control what we support. Choose slow. Choose respect. Choose wild.

After the safari, I made my way back to Beruwala — tired, muddy, memory cards full. It felt good to return to something familiar for a while. But the adventure isn't quite over yet.

Next stop: Kanneliya Rainforest

A different kind of wild awaits — dense jungle, dripping leaves, rare birds, and who knows what else hidden beneath the canopy.